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Learn beekeeping in 2019
Learn beekeeping in 2019

Saturday 27th July & Saturday 3rd August

10am to 4pm

Are you interested to learn about Beekeeping but unsure if it is for you? Would you like to know what is involved, what commitment is needed and would you be able to keep bees where you live? Would you like to understand what is expected before jumping in headfirst?

Would you like to get kitted up and inspect a beehive with a beekeeper?

BeeEducated are holding two Beekeeping Taster Days are their training room and apiary where we will delivery a short course which covers:

  • The lifecycle and makeup of a honeybee colony
  • An overview of the beekeeping season
  • The basics of swarming
  • Equipment needed
  • Expectations and commitment
  • Inspection of inside a beehive and a colony of bees

Places are limited due to equipment so early booking is needed to secure your place. The cost of the course covers equipment, insurance and refreshments and a buffet lunch.

At the end of the taster day, interested parties will be offered early bird registration for BeeEducated 2020 Training to secure places at both the Wilmslow and Chorlton Training Apiaries.

To reserve your place now, select the date you wish to attend and pay via PayPal.

£30 Per Person!

Once you are booked on the course, you will be sent joining instructions for your preferred day and you will be asked information about dietary requirements and beekeeping suit size.

If you have any questions about this event, please call 0161 821 1947 or email


Help Save The Honey Bee in Wilmslow!

Wilmslow Residents, The Honey Bee Needs YOU!

BeeEducated is holding a FREE training session on how you can do your bit to help honey bees and other polinators in our area!

Book your Free ticket now!



Do you know the difference between a honey bee, bumble bee or wasp?
Did you know we are one of the reasons for the decline of honeybees?
Did you know local honey can prevent allergies?

There will be a one-off event held at the church and local people can come and learn about the decline in honeybees.
Hopefully, we can all have an impact in reducing the decline of the bees.
If you are interested in bees, gardening or would like to be a beekeeper, or if you want to know how you can help the local honey bees, please do come along.
Make it a date in calendar.

The session will cover ideas about how you can get involved.
You cannot be too old or too young to attend, you will enjoy the session and it’s free.
You will leave feeling motivated and empowered to help protect the honeybees in Wilmslow, you will learn about how little changes, such as growing a few plants in your garden, will save these tiny beautiful pollinators.
Reasons for the decline in bees
Impact on you and me
Hand pollination
How we can help them
How far can you go to help them
BEES NEED YOU. Because you need them.

The session will be led by Mr Ian Johnson; Apiary Manager at the BeeEducated group held in Wilmslow and will cover everything you need to know, to do your bit!

Towards the end of the year, beekeepers prepare their honeybee colonies for winter.

An abridged version of ‘Winter Bees’ from the Pinner and Ruislip Beekeepers Association. In order to live to the spring a colony must be a good size, be disease and mite free. A build up of mites or disease could mean a colony dies.

Hives are checked to make sure they are not damaged. Preventative methods are used to make sure and that they won’t get damp. Bees produce a lot of water vapour and this could condense in the top part of the hive and drip down on the bees making them too cold.

A mouse guard is attached to each hive entrance to stop unwanted pests getting in and eating the stored food.

An English colony needs around 40 lbs of honey to survive our unpredictable winter. The bees make and store extra honey between spring and autumn in readiness for winter because there little or no food in the UK from mid-October to February.

If, due to bad weather, the nectar flow has slowed up in late summer then the bees are fed a supplement of liquid sugar syrup during August so that the bees have time to turn it into honey and store in sealed cells before the weather gets cold. The beekeeper encourages overproduction of honey within the hive so that the excess can be taken without endangering the colony’s winter stores.

 A summer bee and a winter bee are physically different

Cooler autumn weather triggers the rearing of stockier, stronger winter bees to make sure the colony survives the winter. The autumn larvae are fed a low fat, high protein content (unlike summer bees reared on high fat, low protein) which results in fatter bodies and a different blood protein profile than a summer bee and they live far longer 4 to 6 months instead of the six week lifespan of a summer bee. They will also have far less work to do.

Honeybees do not hibernate but what they do is even more fascinating than that.
Honeybee will over-winter clustered together vibrating their wing muscles to generate heat. This cluster looks like a ball of bees that covers a few frames usually in the vertical centre of the hive. The ball size will depend on how many bees are in the hive and what the temperatures are outside the hive. The colder it is the more close together the bees will be in the cluster. The bees only heat the cluster; the rest of the hive is the same temperature as the apiary. The bees on the inside of the cluster can still walk around. Food consumption is minimal. Bees regularly switch places, with ones from the inner core taking up a position on the outer core to allow the outer bees to go inside. As food supplies dwindle around the cluster the bees will move up; rarely do they move to the sides.

The queen will start laying eggs in January in the middle of the cluster thus starting to build up the bee population in readiness for spring. By the end of winter the stores of food will become low. In the early spring, when nectar flow begins, the colony grows rapidly. Going into winter a good colony would consist of approximately 60,000 bees but at the end maybe 10,000 are left.


Winter feeding will be done if the bees are on the verge of starvation or to stimulate the queen to lay and some beekeepers place dry sugar around the hole in the inner hive cover, others use bakers’ fondant (additive and flavouring free). Pollen substitutes are sometimes given. On mild days the bees will take the feed and place it around the brood nest where it is available for them to use.

Milder winters cause more beekeeping problems in that the bees will not form a cluster but freely walk around eating precious stores then not have enough when it is very cold and maybe starve. Also if it gets too cold for too long, the bees won’t be able to shift in the cluster to access their food.

Dwindling populations are one cause of colonies dying. When this begins to happen, the amount of bees in a cluster become less. Fewer bees place a stress on the remaining bees to maintain cluster temperatures during very cold weather.

Some bees die much before their time for other reasons which include mites, bacterial diseases etc. On milder days bees take cleansing flights as they do not defecate inside the hive. If they cannot get out for a long time then they could develop dysentery (nosema)


Pinner & Ruislip Beekeepers’ Association was formed in 1954 by the amalgamation of the Pinner BKA and the Ruislip BKA.

The Pinner Beekeepers’ Association was established at a meeting at “Newlands”, Pinner on Friday 17th 1928 and in 1929, with an annual membership fee of 5 shillings, the membership comprised of 100 enthusiasts.

It’s uncertain exactly when Ruislip Beekeepers was founded, but both clubs were active in the 1930s. After the 2nd World War, the realisation gradually dawned that the area couldn’t support two clubs, so the two groups amalgamated.

From our records it appears that the first Honey Show was held by the Pinner Beekeepers, in conjunction with the Pinner Horticultural Association in 1932 on September 24th.

In 1986 our association was granted charitable status (No 290514).

Authors Note:

You may care to visit their website at to read the above article in its unabridged form, I am sure they will welcome your visit.

End of Season Raffle!
As I am sure you are all aware, this years summer was nothing to have a waggle dance about, and with low food stores, were going to struggle to make it through the winter! We need protecting from starvation, infections and treating to stop them pesky Varro mites which are killing off many natural swarms in the UK. Luckily, us girls at the BeeEducated Apiary are looked after and fed by our Beekeepers, but they need the money to buy our treatments, feeds and the equipment to do this amazing work!

This year is our first year in Wilmslow and we have managed to grown the honeybee population in the area. We love our work but we can only do this by getting support from its residents, local businesses and the council. Please support our work by buying as many raffle tickets as you can afford so that you are entered into our draw of honeybee related prizes.

Each Tick costs £2.50. Tickets are bought online, via Paypal and the generated Paypal numbers will be your tickets. The draw will take place at the Wilmslow Animal Sanctuary, BeeEducated Apiary on Sunday, 8th January 2017. Once your Payment has been received you will receive an email confirmation confirming your numbers from our group Secretary. Ticket Sales end midday on Saturday 7th January 2017. Tickets are non-refundable and all monies raised will be used by our group to cover the cost of supporting honeybee colonies in the area.


  1. A BEE HIVE, A Colony of Bees and a Year Long Beekeeper Training course delivered by BeeEducated.
  2. Year Long Beekeeper Training course delivered by BeeEducated.
  3. 3x Family Beekeeping Experiences at the BeeEducated Apiary.
  4. Silver Honeybee Jewelry.
  5. Jar of 2016 SK9 5LN Honey.
BeeEducated is registered with Cheshire East Council for Small Society Lotteries.

Mark here again, Today I'm going to explain about how a colony works.

When you first look into a hive you will see hundreds of bee's, apparently acting random. However, while individual bees do spend a lot of time "resting", they are in fact all working together to ensure the survival of the colony,As bee's can not survive for long on their own. It is the combined efforts of the bee's which enables the colony to function successfully.

You will see many frames of bee's which are on a basic wax structure on which the colony draw out to use to store food and produce new bee's. if there are larger spaces within the colony bee's will start to make their own wax to fill the space. To do this bees secrete wax from their glands on the underside of the bee's abdomen. Tiny scales produced are passed forward to the jaws, where they are manipulated and softened.

Each Colony has only one "Queen" which is the only bee able too lay fertilised eggs. Sometimes female worker bee's can lay eggs, but these are unfertile. Bee genetics are complicated. Fertile eggs are laid and hatch into female worker bee's  and unfertile eggs hatch to make male bee's otherwise known ad "Drones". A Queen can live for Four to Five Years. Her task Within the colony is to keep the colony alive by producing enough Fertilised eggs to keep the colony growing. The Queen produces a special Pheromone that is passed to all the bee's within the colony.

For the Queen to be able to fulfil her role she must mate with the male bee's "drones". She may Mate with up to twenty drones in one mating flight, The queen will only ever do one mating flight in her life time. The Queen stores the sperm within the abdomen.

Drones are none fertilised eggs. There are slightly bigger than a normal female worker and are much more burly. The males Do not collect pollen, neither do they collect nectar. The Main role of the Drone is to Mate with a virgin Queen. Once they have mated The drone will die.

The worker bee "female bee" is what makes the majority of the colony up. They are responsible for most of the tasks needed to be done to make the colony survive. As soon as the worker bee hatches they start to complete certain tasks around the hive. E.g.  House bee, Nurse bee, forager, under taker and guard bee. The House bee starts by cleaning the cells ready for the Queen to lay a new egg into to ensure the reproduction of the colony is ongoing. She will then move on to feeding the larvae. Then when the worker bee is a little older she will feed and tend to the Queen.  As she becomes more experienced she will then start receiving nectar and pollen from foraging bee's and storing this. After about three weeks she will become experienced enough to become a forager. Before starting this role they may be required to cover guard duty on the entrance of the hive. Guide duty involves protecting the hive from pests such as wasps and other creatures that may want to steal their honey.

Foraging is to collect pollen and nectar for the colony to survive and expand. Nectar provides the colony with a carbohydrate for the colony. This is stored within the thorax of the bee. Foragers will also collect pollen and store this in the little pockets within their back legs. This is a protein for the colony and is used to feed young bee's. The Colony also need's water for their survival. The Forager will also collect Propolis which is a sticky substance which is brought back to the hive and used to fill any gaps within the hive to help regulate the temperature within the hive.

All these duties take a great strain on the worker bee and therefore makes the worker bee die at a young age. During the summer bee's life span is that of only a few weeks. During the winter due to lack of flying worker bee's can last up to 6 Months. This helps the survival on colonies during the winter months.

I hope this has helped you learn something new about our amazing honey bee's and I will See you again soon.